Uttarbanga 0.1 — Part 4 | উত্তরবঙ্গ ০.১ | অন্তিম পর্ব

25–27 January 2023

January 25th — meant to wake early, managed it late. Bhapa pitha for breakfast and we were moving. Last full day in the north. Destination: Jamalpur. Not by road — by river. The Brahmaputra sits between Kurigram and Jamalpur with no bridge. We decided on water.

CNG to Chilmari ghat, then a boat towards Rajibpur at quarter to eleven. Winter had drawn the water down, large char islands rising from the riverbed. The January sun had warmth without heat, a gentle breeze coming off the slow-moving water. Horses on a char, grazing — sunlight reflected off the river catching their coats, making them look silver. Watching that, I felt quietly and completely fortunate.

Disembarked at Rajibpur and ate lunch. Then CNG to Jamalpur on a road I never want to travel again — so much dust that my shirt had effectively changed colour. We played cards on our phones all the way through. Arrived at Niloy's at five in the afternoon. After washing: polao, hilsa, shol fish, chicken and fried aubergine. New to me was pithhali or mendai — ground rice cooked with beef, something like a haleem. Not bad at all.

Ten at night, a friend's house in Basakpara. Mutton, large hilsa, ayre fish, fried aubergine, cauliflower and tomato dish, and gurer firni to finish. Good conversation with the family.

January 26th — a family occasion kept me from joining the group that day. They visited Gajni and Madhutila in Sherpur. I heard later that horses were ridden and paddle boats navigated.

January 27th — said goodbye to Azmain, breakfast from Niloy's mother: beef, rui fish and lentil soup. CNG to Dhanbari. The nawab's estate is striking from outside. The mosque beside it carries one distinction I found moving: Quranic recitation never stops there, day or night. Sweets, then CNG to Madhupur, bus to Mymensingh.

First stop: Shashi Lodge. It stops you. Bangladesh Agricultural University campus by auto, lunch at Jabbar's square. Evening tea and gradual goodbyes.

Found my school friend Alif at the campus. Walked the faculty buildings. Then Bijoy Express to Chittagong, bus to Cox's Bazar — home.

Route: Khulna → Saidpur → Dinajpur → Panchagarh → Banglabandha → Rangpur → Kurigram → Jamalpur → Mymensingh → Chittagong → Home